Not Very Famous Last Words About Our Trip

(sunset at our place)






We've been back nearly two weeks now. From the Home Office, here are our final-for-now thoughts on the trip, delivered late-night TV style:

TOP 10 THINGS WE LOVED ABOUT OUR TRIP

10. Using charades as our first language.
9. Visiting mythic lands.
8. Meeting warm, friendly people everywhere we went.
7. Ingesting a variety of new foods and drinks.
6. Observing the history and pageantry of Mongolia, and the staying power of Chingiss Khan.
5. Learning to say "thank you" in Mandarin, Mongolian and Tibetan.
4. Seeing what life in Central Asia looks like.
3. Peking Duck.
2. Experiencing something new every moment of every day.

...and the number 1 thing we loved about our trip...

1. Having lifelong memories and the sense of accomplishment/gratitude that comes with having the adventure of a lifetime.

TOP 10 THINGS WE LOVED ABOUT RETURNING HOME

10. In N Out Burger.
9. Modern public restrooms.
8. Fresh fish.
7. Less diesel.
6. Elbow room.
5. Potable tap water.
4. Clear difference between "on-road" and "off-road" driving.
3. Appreciating our lives from a new perspective.
2. Sleeping in our own bed.
1. BREWSTER!

More Tibet images

In viewing order, here are more pictures from Tibet:

1) All in, we spent nearly 36 hours on airplanes at 35,000 feet. Molly spent 5 minutes on this yak in the Khampala Pass at 20,000 feet. Behind her you can see Yamdruk Tso (lake), one of Tibet's largest and holiest lakes.

2) Our guide Tsering and his family on our last morning in Lhasa. Kindergarten-aged girls are the same the world over - shy at first, then giggly, then wanting to come with us to California!

3) David standing in front of the Strong Buddha painted on a mountainside in the 11th century. This is on the road from the Lhasa airport to the city.

4) Memorial stupa at the Shigatze Monastery. (Shigatze is 250 km southest of Lhasa). A stupa is usually a small, closed structure not built for entrance - sometimes built as a tomb or as an offering to Buddha. This is the biggest stupa in the world, with multiple doors and several stories high.

FINALLY, pictures of Tibet

Here are the pictures the Chinese didn't want you to see...(just kidding). In order of viewing:

1) The Potala Palace, home to all the Dalai Lamas except the present one....

2) Inside the courtyard of Drepung Monastery. The bright paints are used to keep away the termites! This was once the largest monastery in Tibet, home to more than 10,000 monks. Today, by Government rule, no monastery is allowed more than 500 monks. Drepung means "pile of rice" which is how the buildings look against the mountainside.

3) The symbology of the two deer facing the Wheel of Dharma (not a gameshow) is prominent in all monasteries. The male and female deer sybolize opposites - the yin and yang - and the wheel is the cycle of life.

4) The view from the top of Jhokhang Temple in Lhasa. See previous posting about Jhokhang.

5) A native rides down the Yarlung Tsangpo (river) in a yak skin boat. This river becomes the Brahmaputra in India. These boats, like Native Americans' canoes, have been used for thousands of years.

Delayed Images

Now that we're out of communist China, we finally realize WHY we were unable to a) view our blog or, b) post pictures. Apparently, the government tracks and blocks certain internet activity, and while we are certainly not subversives (okay, maybe a little), Tibet is a very touchy area for some. We learned that our visit there coincided with the anniversary of a Tibetan demonstration, as well as the opening of a new railway from Beijing, so the military was showing their colors so to speak.

We loved the Tibetan countryside and the native people. Their smiles, dress and devotion to their religion was very moving in spite of great poverty.

Here are some more pictures of our Mongolian host family, the traditional suede jackets that we bought, and the REAL McCOY traditional clothing that our hosts insisted we put on for posterity before we left.

Tibetan Countryside

Last night we arrived back in Beijing after a total of 5 days and 6 nights in Tibet. We continue to be blessed with good karma on this adventure. Our Tibetan travels were led by a native Tibetan named Tsering, and our driver, Geshe. Tsering's English was very good, and he was very knowledgeable about Buddhism, having studied at a religious university in India for 19 years. He and his family honored us yesterday by inviting us to their home-- the first time they'd had tourists over! We were served Tibetan tea and fruit, and introduced to their children. And as we left, they shocked us. Tsering asked us to choose one of the four thangkas (Buddhist tapestries) from the wall in their tiny livingroom shrine. We did, and he TOOK IT OFF THE WALL and gave it to us. His wife told us that the one we chose, White Tara (the goddess of wisdom) was their wedding present to each other. Needless to say, we were speechless. We are still speechless.

We spent the last 2 days of our Tibet adventure in the countryside, and boy was it gorgeous! We drove from Lhasa along the Friendship Highway (which goes past Everest to the Nepalese border) to the 20,000' Khampala Pass. From there we had stunning views of the turquoise Yamdruk-tso Lake, a very holy place. Tsering told us that pilgrims make the lake's kora (prayer walk) in 19 days. Molly celebrated the summit by sitting on a yak. Different strokes for different folks. She also bought David a zee, a Tibetan seashell fossil known as the eyes of Buddha, and worn close to the heart to ensure good health and long life.

We felt all the more alive for having lived through a drive in which Geshe passed cars and buses through blind, hairpin turns into oncoming traffic-- we never quite got used to Tibetan and Mongolian traffic patterns and driving habits, but it was an excellent exercise in faith! We were reminded of this on our last night in Lhasa, when our driver plowed through another intersection (drivers take the right of way here, not pedestrians) and an Italian family cursed at him. We chuckled, recognizing rookies when we saw them.

From Khampala pass we drove east to the small town of Gyantse. On the way, Geshe hung an abrupt left off of the highway between two nondescript adobe-like huts. A few minutes later, Tsering told us this "road" was a shortcut. We considered it offroad, and it stayed that way through hill and dale for the next hour and a half. Along the way we saw small villages where we couldn't imagine sustenance among the rocks, and a few hills where there were prayer flags and cairns indicating cemetaries for sky burials.

In Gyantse we lucked out; it was their annual festival! We love festivals, so we delayed visiting the monastery so we could join the locals and see the morning's horse race (yak race was the next day; Tsering did a great impression of a running yak, so we didn't feel like we missed out). Unlike Mongolian or American horse racing, this event was one rider at a time through a slalom course in which the rider struck at branches and melons with a sword. Each turn and target was worth points, or treasure, or Buddhist merit, or something. At some point we realized that in our corner of the crowd, there was another spectacle besides the horses and riders. That spectacle was us.

In the afternoon we visited the Tshlinghunpo Monastery, home to monks and the largest statue of Metrea (future Buddha) in the world.

At each village we passed, children ran out to say hello and wave. Sometimes they were genuinely happy to see us, and other times we realized this was sales and marketing, quickly followed by an upturned palm. At the Khampala Pass, Molly was struck (literally, though gently) by a switch-wielding beggar! It's a no-win, because we felt like we wanted to help, but our guide and others have commented that giving in creates dependency and Tibetans must find other ways to help themselves. Molly gave in anyway; if you want something from her, just hit her with a stick. Just kidding.

We have seen some incredible topography; Tibet's mountains are rich in minerals, over 130 in fact. There is more turquoise in Tibet than there is in New Mexico (probably more adobe too-- this is what people still use to build in the countryside). Consequently, there is a lot of mining taking place. The colors of the mountains are varied, and the landscape is rich with wheat, garlic, watermelon, and flowers!

Tibet is a juxtaposition of old and new. Tourism brings lots of traffic to the tiny country roads, which are still filled with natives carrying packs, driving donkeys, and shepherding their sheep, yaks, cows and goats. Three days ago, we picnicked along the Yarlung Tsangpo (the Yellow River, which turns into the Brahmaputra/Ganges River as it flows south into India). The next day, along the same stretch of road, we watched and listened as a Chinese tour bus brought a young sheep's life to an end. Tibetan customs dictate that when such a thing happens, the driver is to get out and make amends with the animal's owner by making payment. This particular driver did not even stop. The cost of progress, we guess.

Tibet's population is only 30% native and 70% Chinese. New construction of factories, housing, golf courses, etc, (timed with the 2008 Beijing Olympics) is changing the face of Tibet's population centers. Chinese military is also ever-present, particularly because of the new railway and previous demonstrations. From our hotel room in Lhasa we heard their daily drills; don't know what they were shouting, but suspect it wasn't "2,4,6,8... who do we appreciate?" It left no doubt Tibet is occupied country.

We will try to follow this post with pictures, hopefully we'll have better luck from here.

Monasteries Galore

Today we are continuing our exploration of Tibet with visits to the oldest and largest monasteries, Drepung and Sera Monasteries. Each used to be home to over 10,000 monks; today only about 500 monks plus lay people live there. Drepung is about 5 miles outside of Lhasa, and it felt like another 10,000 feet above our current 14,000 feet, but not really. It was just a LOT of steep stairs. No need for Molly's triathlon training here, we're getting our exercise just breathing in and out, thank you. We wish we could post our pictures to date, but even this new internet connection we've found is slowwww.

Each monastery is a combination of the old and the new. Some construction of original structures date back to the 7th century on through to the 17th century. Today, the Chinese government is making improvements to each site so they are all under construction. Inside, you'll find many chapels, teaching rooms, meditation rooms. The chapels are filled with both old and new statues of all the many Buddha's...there are so many our heads are starting to spin. Molly's favorite is White Tara, the goddess of Wisdom. Although, according to our Mongolian friends, the "god" linked to Molly's birth year is Buddha himself. David's "god" is something we can't pronounce, but we'll show you the beautiful tapestry depicting the god when we return. Not only are the statues of Tibetan Buddha's, but also Tantric (Indian) Buddhas, and former Tibetan kings, as well as the 1st through 13th Dalai Lama's and their respective Buddhas.

There are many pilgrims from all over the countryside paying homage at these monasteries. While David and Molly show their respect by occasionally bowing heads and genuflecting with prayerful hands, these folks are constantly mumbling prayers, prostrating (actually laying on the ground), and fingering prayer beads. We were each given a set of beads in Mongolia and know the chants that go along with them.

Speaking of old and new, the monks are dressed in the traditional crimson robes. They are present in each room, to make sure tourists don't take pictures. Not that pictures take away any of the spiritual significance; but pictures are an extra charge. Add more yuan if you want to take video. So we don't have much film from inside the monasteries. While the monks are chanting in prayer, their cell phones ring deep inside their robes...it's really funny to hear a popular song being played as a ringtone from inside a candle-lit chapel.

More later, and hopefully, some pictures from our last couple of days. We'll pray to the buddha of the internet!

Day 2 in Lhasa: Hello Dalai

First off, our metric math and ability to reason were off-kilter yesterday; we are at more than 14,000 feet above sea level! We feel fine though, and have been drinking litres of water.

This morning we visited the Potala, the official home of the Dalai Lama. It was originally built in the seventh century and added onto since. The structure now stands an imposing 13 stories on top of a hill overlooking Lhasa, the "City of God." Since there's no elevator, looking up at the stairs was an excellent time to get motivated! Some of the stairs are so steep that our shins touched the next rung up as we climbed.

The artwork in the Potala is intricate and beautiful, fitting as this is to Buddhism what the Vatican is to Catholicism. Speaking of which, the more we learn about Buddhism the more we realize it has in common with the Judeo-Christian theologies we both grew up with. It certainly has more gods, though! The Potala contains multiple chapels paying homage to the previous 13 Dalai Lamas, as well as memorial tomb stupas and libraries containing ancient texts used by monks. It was a bit awkward to walk through the palace of the current Dalai Lama and know he hasn't been allowed anywhere near the place for approximately 50 years, since the "cultural revolution" of Mao.

Speaking of which, we can't talk about this until we get home. There are real consequences here, and it is an interesting vibe. The Navajo must feel a similar sense of liberation.

After the Potala we went to the Jhokhang Temple, one of the most important sites in Buddhism. In the center stands a statue which our guide told us contains an element of the underworld, and which Buddhists all over the world consider to be the most precious artifact on Earth. Since it's scheduled to return in total to the underworld 2500 years after its creation, we're glad to have seen it while it's here.

We also walked the kora of the Barkhor. A kora is a pilgrim's circumnabulation of a sacred site; in the Barkhor's case, it's also an opportunity to shop. We combined the two and worshipped at the shops. The vendors are extremely aggressive, particularly near tourist attractions. It was interesting to see an outdoor shopping mall where everyone walked in the same direction! We saw many Tibetans wearing the attire of their home region. Our guide pointed out pilgrims from Tingri (at the base of Mount Everest) and Kham in eastern Tibet. The people and the art remind us of South American Indian cultures; bright colored fabrics and dark, expressive faces.

Lunch saw a change in our diets. David switched from mutton to yak. Molly switched from mutton to lamb. Good stuff, especially the garlic naan (large pieces of flat bread).

After lunch we visited Norbalinka Park, home to the summer palaces of the Dalai Lamas. We saw the current Dalai Lama's summer residence, which he only used for three years. The park has many fresh flowers (the marigold trucks were pulling up as we left), lots of trees and ponds. Now it is used primarily for festivals and picnics. It's a serene place and we understand why the Dalai Lamas chose it as a getaway.

We have been watching CNN the last two nights, and it seems the news is all from the Middle East and all bad. With all of the history and culture here, it seems like every clash is balanced with compassion at some point, and we hope (against hope) that this conflict too will end.

That's it for now. The internet connection we've found here is very slow, so pictures will have to wait until we find a new connection and/or get back to Beijing.

Hi From the Roof of the World

We arrived in Tibet this afternoon after a quick night (5 hours sleep) in Beijing. Our last moments in Ulaan Baatar were some of our favorite-- the Damdinsuren family presented us with gifts, asked us to pose for pictures in their traditional robes and hats, and sat with us at the airport. When the flight was called, they stood outside the window and waved until we had to turn and check in. We feel very honored to be their friends!

On the flight to Beijing, we met an Aussie tourguide named Craig who turned out to share our senses of adventure and humor, and the two-hour flight whizzed by. A good thing, since Mongolian International Airlines has the kind of safety record that international diplomats have made official policy to avoid. We all shared a car into the city and plan on keeping in touch.

As we landed in Tibet, we were fascinated by the view out of the window-- and on the video screens! The plane was outfitted with forward and bottom cameras, so we could see the mountains and approaching runway. Pretty cool if you don't have vertigo.

When we landed we were met by a guide who presented us with traditional white scarves. In Tibetan Buddhism prayer flags and scarves are very important. Each color (red, blue, white, green, yellow) symbolizes good luck, love/respect, long life, prosperity, God and other good stuff. On the road we saw many, MANY flags and scarves draped on rocks, bridges, and branches that had been planted in the Yellow Tsangpo (the river known as the Brahmaputra in India). Our guide explained that the flags in the river were actually memorials for children who had died and been "fed to the fish" (her words). Only children are given water burials because they are not yet ready for Nirvana; adults receive sky burials.

The altitude here in Lhasa is approximately 10,800' if our metric math is right, which is a stretch because our brains are fuzzy from the lack of oxygen. We're glad not to have plans until tomorrow, so we can adjust to the altitude. In spite of all of that we are staying in a former Holiday Inn and just had a warm meal which helps.

Tomorrow we visit the Potala, the palace of the Dalai Lama. In 1949 he fled the country due to the Chinese occupation. More in coming days.

Some Pics from Last Days in Mongolia

Here are two pictures of us on a camel. Obviously. Moo. Loading pictures takes a while and we're punchy.

Last Days of Ulaan Baatar

Sang beno (hello) sportsfans, this is our last day in Mongolia. This afternoon we fly to Beijing, and then on to Tibet tomorrow morning.

The last couple of days have been very eventful. Yesterday we went to a memorial of the Soviet soldiers who fought with the Mongolians against the Germans in WWII. The statue and mosaic are at the top of a steep hill, so naturally Zolzaya wanted to run up all the stairs. David kept up for a while, but eventually the diesel and altitude got them both and we all staggered to the top together. We were rewarded with a view of all of Ulaan Baatar and the surrounding hills.

On the way down, Molly noticed that there were camel rides being offered by the side of the road. Yay! We rode a white camel, and Zolzaya noticed that it was indeed crying. Perhaps it was because he farted. For Raggedy Ann fans, this camel did not have wrinkled knees. The experience was great, and the camel talked to us-- we swear! Call us for imitations when we get back.

Our hosts treated us to a performance of the Mongolian National Theatre Company, which was a variety show that included throat singing, contortionists, dancing, and symphonic music. It was an amazing show, and we filmed a little of it before we got busted.

At the end of the evening we were taken to dinner at--yes, this is not a typo-- an Irish pub called Great Khan (naturally). The only thing Irish about it was the beer. Speaking of drinks, David rebounded and was made to toast last night with REAL Mongolian Vodka, distilled from horse milk. It's only 12% alcohol, and the toast was for safe travel.

Today the drinking got less alcoholic and FAR more adventurous. We had noticed street vendors selling what we thought was water. It's not. They are selling arak, or horsemilk, the original drink of Genghis Khan himself. They pour it out from big jugs into whatever container you have, and you drink. Our hosts realized we hadn't had some and cannibalized a plastic water bottle. Molly and David both sipped and tried not to make faces. The taste is a combination of sour milk and ammonia-based all-purpose cleanser with yeast; cleanse is exactly what it will do to you if you drink more than a little, we're told. We'll never know, we've had our last.

This morning we watched the monks at the monastery chant together, and Zolzay's dad made it possible for the lama to chant a prayer for our safety on our journey. It was very moving. Zolzaya told us that the locals were curious about us because most tourists don't actually pray, and we were following along with the family.

Zolzaya and his brother continue to amuse; we can't understand more than a few words, and every once in a while they break into hysterical laughter, sound effects or one chases the other out of the room. Brothers will be brothers no matter what language they're speaking.

As we prepare for our departure, we realize how much effort the family has made on our behalf. We could not have really seen this place without doing it through their eyes, and we're grateful. They've asked us to meet them in Beijing for the 2008 Olympics, and to bring a kid of our own...
(Zolzaya wants a boy, his mom wants a girl).

Next posting from Tibet!

Recent Pictures

Here are some photos from the Manzushir Nature Preserve and temple ruins. They go with the previous post.

Highlights of Ulaanbaatar

Today is our last full day and night in Ulaan Baatar, and we are thinking about some of the little things we want to share while they're fresh. The Manzushir Temple was a high point, literally, near the peak of the Bogd Khan Mountain. Nestled in a Switzerland-esque valley, the mountain stream was so fresh we actually could drink the water. And it tasted GREAT! On the hour-plus drive, we taught each other words from our languages. Zolba, Zolzaya's older brother, pointed out a white cow and said "white co" in English....to show him the accurate pronunciation of "cow", David pinched himself and said "OW!" It got huge laughs, and now Zolba knows how to say "cow."

On the topic of food and drink, we have been drinking Mongolian tea. It is not actually tea, but mutton broth and milk. Sometimes you even get a dollop of Mutton fat in it for extra flavor! It took some getting used to, but it actually leaves you feeling very energized. Molly got to help Khajidmaa (Z's mom, sounds like Hatchetma) make Mongolia buuz (sounds like bootz). These are steamed mutton dumplings, made with a pizza-like dough filled with mutton and onions. Apparently, Molly did a pretty great job of crimping the dumplings, much to her and everyone's surprise! We all agreed they were "sachen" (good) buuz.

The news from the horse race was that two riders and horses were struck by lightning, but the riders survived. One of the riders actually continued running on foot after his horse gave way, just so he could finish the race. Remember, these are little boys. Can you imagine a 6 year-old running the better part of 30 miles? These are hearty people for sure. Speaking of exercise, Molly has been able to keep up her triathlon training, somewhat. She has had 2 runs in Mongolia, and with the altitude and diesel fumes this was an accomplishment.

Yesterday we finished our shopping. We both now have traditional Mongolian jackets that are worn for special occasions. Suede with leather trim and silver buttons, Molly's is cranberry-colored and David's is tan. We also went to the national art museum which featured both religious (Buddhist) and historical collections: knives, costumes, paintings and sculpture. It was spectacular. In the olden days, they would make horns out of female human shin bones...no, they didn't sacrifice the woman we are told.

Today we will visit more museums and pack up for our return flight (not another 30 hour train ride for us!) to Beijing tomorrow. We have secured our permits and tour to Tibet and after one night in Beijing, we will head out for 5 days in Tibet.

Pictures of Nadaam and Mongolia

We had trouble uploading the pics to go with the last posting, so here they are!

Nadaam Festival

For the last three days we have been participating in the Nadaam Festival and Mongolia's 800th Anniversary. The opening ceremony was an amazing display of color, music, traditional costumes, and wrestling. Think the Native American Gathering of Nations meets the Super Bowl halftime show, combined with an ethnic version of the Olympic opening ceremonies and while you're at it, throw in the Renaissance Fair.

At one point a child rode into the stadium on a horse at full speed, shouting, "Genghis Khan is coming! Genghis Khan is coming!" This is the way he was announced in battle and in peace, and it was an awesome sight. The Mongolians have preserved his original flags, which are actually made of horse manes. They preceeded a massive ox-drawn chariot, and Genghis himself stepped out to the delight of the crowd. The sight even gave us non-Mongolians goosebumps.

Speaking of horses, we've eaten one. Tasted like chicken. NOT. We've also eaten sheep innards, and mutton stew, mutton dumplings, mutton soup, and mutton with rice. And noodles. Two nights ago, in a fit of politeness and impeccably bad judgement, David put away a bottle of Mongolian vodka with Zolzaya's dad. We don't know what the word for "puke" in Mongolian is, but they both did, and now we're officially family. And David is officially off of Mongolian vodka. Forever.

Yesterday we all went to the countryside for the annual horserace. Unlike American races, this is held in 30 miles of open space, and the riders must be YOUNGER than 11 years old. Thousands of people drove on-road, off-road, no-road, and into each other to get there. It was quite a scene.

Speaking of driving, there are no rules here. Suggestions maybe, but no one pays attention to the lane markers (when they're present) or any of the 4-5 stoplights we've seen. Pedestrians, run for your lives! Like the Mongolian language, a car horn can mean different things at different times, but the beeping is constant and usually without malice.

We've picked up a little bit of the language, but pronunciation is difficult and spelling is out of the question, so you'll have to wait for us to spit-- speak, rather-- when we return. Think Russian/Chinese and charades. Our host family is also picking up some English.

The six of us are living in a 2-bed 1-bath apartment, and somehow it works. We've been given the master bedroom, the only room with a door. The Damdinsurens are warm and gracious, and we love to laugh together (and once in a while at each other).

Today we visited the Ulaanbaatar Monastery, the largest monastery in the country. We learned a great deal and were allowed to visit the monks' library, where they keep original texts used to train young monks. Afterward we prayed to the gods of commerce at the cashmere factory store (who's been naughty and who's been nice, hmmm?). This afternoon we drove into the countryside to see the remnants of Mongolia's first temple. We learned that it was one of more than seven hundred temples destroyed by communists in the 1930s. It is set in the mountains, and we had a picnic before being rained out. The weather is ever-changing here, and there always seems to be something beautiful and interesting right around the corner. But look both ways twice, or you'll never make it.

Greetings from Mongolia!

Two hours ago we arrived in Ulaan Baatar, the capital of Mongolia, after a 30+ hour train ride from Beijing. We shared a four-bunk sleeper car with Zoogii's cousin, who was joined by friends from other cars during the trip. The train ride took us through the mountains west of Beijing, past the Great Wall of China, past endless farmlands and prairie.

Beginning at 10:30 last night, we were "treated" to the officiousness of both Chinese and Mongolian officials at the borders. Endless paperwork, and every time we thought we were done and could go back to sleep there was someone else turning on the lights, saying something unintelligible and going through our bags. Once the train was refit for the Mongolian rails, we were back on our way-- at about 2:30 AM. We awoke this morning to the sands of the Gobi desert and were soon in the grasslands of Mongolia.

At the rail station in Ulaan Baatar we were met by Zoogii and his family. They are wonderful people who have welcomed us with open arms. We have already shared a delicious meal (mutton, peppers, rice and Mongolian tea) and many laughs. The landscape here reminds of Colorado because of the high altitude, blue sky, mountains and wide open spaces. Otherwise it is completely different.

Zoogii is sitting next to us in the internet cafe and says hi!

Beijing

Greetings from Beijing! After a 12 hour flight (Molly was awake for 3), we were greeted at the airport by a friend of our Mongolian host. We were chauffered to our hotel/apartment which is complete with kitchen, laundry room and balcony. We took a quick nap and were met by another driver who took us to the Forbidden City. This is one of Beijing's amazing cultural landmarks. Built in the 1400s, it encompasses 900 buildings, most of which have been renovated. The place was packed with thousands of tourists, mostly Chinese. The weather here is hot and humid. Beijing is a city of 15 milion people. The city is under construction for the 2008 Olympics. For those of you familiar with driving a car in Rome, Beijing is a thousand times more challenging! Imagine huge buses and cyclists jockeying for position at 60 miles per hour.

We lunched on the traditional Peking duck (Beijing was formerly called Peking), sliced tableside. Luckily, our waitress spoke English, but so far we have met very few people who do. Including both of our drivers, which meant for interesting travels! We're getting good at sign language.

Today we rose quite early - but not early enough - to witness the Tiananmen Square flag raising and singing of the national anthem. The square was filled with thousands of Chinese who had just finished the flag raising and national anthem. We'll catch it next time. We were definitely a tourist attraction ourselves, as the only caucasians there. We were asked to pose for pictures.

Later today we will visit the Temple of Heaven and the Lama Temple and go ice skating indoors at Beihai Park. We are healthy and happy and truly enjoying this adventure. Next posting will be from Mongolia!

We Leave Tonight

Our flight leaves at 1:40 AM, so we get to watch 4th of July fireworks and then head to Los Angeles International Airport for the flight to Beijing.

The backpacks are packed and sitting in the garage. The dog knows something is up. Every time we think or talk about the trip we get a thrill. The butterflies are equal parts "I can't believe we're going to Mongolia-- isn't this amazing?" and "I can't believe we're going to Mongolia-- what the $%&* are we doing?"

Our next blog entry will be from Beijing.

T-Minus 3 Days

This is a story told by two of us, David and Molly Preston. David recently finished a two-year Peace Corps-esque stint teaching English at James Monroe High School in Southern California. Monroe is the fourth largest high school in the United States, with more than 5000 students. More than 80% of those students are Hispanic or Latino, and many don't speak English at home. Some don't speak English at school. They all seem to have Ipods and RAZR phones.

One day last winter David was stunned to discover a student in possession of a book that wasn't assigned. And it wasn't just any book-- it was The Art of Happiness by His Holiness the Dalai Lama. The student turned out to be Zolzaya (Zoogii) Damdinsuren. Somehow Zoogii had found his way to Monroe as an exchange student from Mongolia.

Over time, David and Zoogii got to know each other, and Zoogii's English improved enough that he invited David and Molly to meet his family. At their house. In Ulaanbaatar. Mongolia.

So we're packing. In three days we will fly to Beijing, China, and hop on the Trans Mongolian train past the Great Wall, through the Gobi (we don't call it the "Gobi Desert" anymore because Gobi means desert in Mongolian), and the Mongolian countryside to Ulaanbaatar.

Actually, we are learning that Mongolia is mostly countryside. Mongolia is larger than Germany, Italy and France put together, and yet only 2 million people live there. 1 million live in Ulaanbaatar. In 1990 Mongolia became a democracy. Our trip coincides with the national celebration of the 800th anniversary of the unification of Mongolia by Ghenghis Khan. Know how many people emigrated to Mongolia in 2005? None. We're going to find out why.

Stay tuned to this space for inconsistent updates during our trip.